Campaign for Clean Viscose

It has long been known that one of the chemicals used in viscose production (carbon disulphide) has been linked to severe health effects including Parkinsonism, heart attack, stroke and mental illness in factory workers. 

“This report reveals that some of the world’s biggest brands are turning a blind eye to questionable practices within their supply chains. With water pollution increasingly being recognised as a major business risk, shifting to more sustainable production processes should be high on retailers’ agendas” Natasha Hurley, Campaign Manager at Changing Markets.

Water pollution

In some areas visited for the investigation, pollution from viscose manufacturing is suspected to be behind the growing incidence of cancer, and villagers have stopped drinking the well water for fear of the effect it will have on their families’ – particularly their children’s – health. The factories are also destroying many traditional livelihoods, with local fishermen particularly badly impacted. 

For example, at factories in West Java operated by Indian conglomerate Aditya Birla (used by Burtons) and Austria’s Lenzing Group, Changing Markets found villagers washing viscose products in the Citarum river, directly exposing themselves to toxic chemicals and adding to the river’s already considerable pollution load.

Time for change

The viscose staple fibre market – which is projected to grow from $13.45 billion in 2016 to $16.78 billion per year by 2021 – is highly concentrated, with 11 companies controlling 75% of global viscose production, so a concerted effort on the part of retailers could achieve dramatic change.

Changing Markets got 150,000 people to sign a petition calling on Zara and H&M “and other fashion giants” to stop sourcing from producers linked to pollution.

What to buy

The report calls on consumers to “only buy viscose from brands that have made a clear commitment to sustainable sourcing of wood pulp and clean viscose production”. 

The main production method that does not release carbon disulphide is the lyocell process, largely either branded Tencel® (for wood-based fibres) and Monocel® (for bamboo-based fibres). So, if you see viscose clothing products claiming to be green or eco – look out for one or other of these names on the label.

How the brands fared on Transparency